What drives a dog to eat feces? Is he lacking something in his diet? Is he bored or starving for attention? Is he unhealthy? Coprophagy is the act of eating feces, either one’s own or the feces of another animal. This behaviour is common, so common that every dog owner has had experience with it in one form or another.
Coprophagy, in the right situation, is normal behaviour. For three weeks after whelping, bitches consume the feces of their pups to keep the nesting area clean. Her desire to eat feces eventually subsides as the pups become independent but the puppies themselves may start to consume feces as they start to investigate their surroundings. As pups mature, they should outgrow this behaviour.
Wild dogs normally eat the feces of horses, sheep, and other herbivores. Domestic dogs also possess this survival instinct, but their owners frown upon this behaviour.
It is well recognized that coprophagy can be triggered when a dog does not get as much attention as he desires. Companion dogs need play sessions, exercise periods, and ample amounts of love and care. Some dogs get so little attention that they crave any type of interaction, even if it is in the form of a reprimand for doing something wrong. If eating feces will cause his owner to shout at him, the dog will continue to do it because he feels rewarded.
Dogs who are stressed are also more likely to eat feces. A sudden change in lifestyle or environment could trigger the behaviour.
It has been suggested that a dog is stimulated to eat feces when he is suffering from a nutrient deficiency. This is based on the supposition that a dog can satisfy his nutrient requirements by eating feces and the undigested food it contains. The data supporting this theory is more anecdotal than proven.
Some diseases can stimulate a dog to begin eating his own feces. A dog with pancreatic enzyme insufficiency will have feces that contains partially or totally undigested nutrients. This gives the feces an attractive smell that prompts the dog to consume it.
Coprophagy has also been linked to a wide spectrum of diseases such as intestinal parasitism, malabsorption (the inability to absorb nutrients through the intestinal wall), diabetes, and Cushing’s Syndrome.
If a disease process is responsible for coprophagy, successful treatment of the condition may eliminate the undesirable behaviour, but the solution is rarely that simple. The behaviour itself must be addressed in just about all cases.
A dog who eats his own feces should be fed an easy to digest, balanced diet. This will ensure he isn’t lacking any nutrients. As well, his feces will have little food value.
Feeding the right amount can also help. Underfed pups may be so hungry that they seek out feces. Overfed pups may not digest their food completely. The undigested nutrients will make the stool very palatable.
Some form of behaviour modification is usually needed to eliminate coprophagy. One approach is to make the stool taste less desirable. This can be accomplished by adding meat tenderizer, pancreatic enzymes, canned pumpkin, or the product ProzymeR (digestive enzymes) to the dog’s diet. This does not work if they are eating the untainted stool of other dogs and cats.
Continuous supervision is an excellent approach to managing coprophagy. This means the dog should be kept on a leash when outside. As soon as the dog shows interest in feces, he is pulled away and given a treat as a reward. The goal is to train the dog to seek out a treat whenever he sees feces. He is discouraged from eating feces through positive reinforcement.
If a dog is allowed to roam freely, the backyard must be poop-scooped regularly. The dog should never see his owner picking up the feces because he will become more focused on the stool out of curiosity.
If a dog starts showing interest in stool, a shaker can (pop can with coins inside it and the hole taped over) should be thrown in the opposite direction of the feces to divert the dog’s attention.
No matter what the cause of coprophagy, always give the dog plenty of exercise and loving care because boredom and lack of attention are big contributors to this abhorrent behaviour.
The Dog Eating Cat Feces
Many dogs consider “kitty crunchies” a fine delicacy. To guard against this type of coprophagy, you must clean the litter pan daily, cover it, or place it in a location that is inaccessible to your dog. Conversely, you can uncover the feces and baste it with TabascoR or another similar hot spicy ingredient, then let your dog have free access. If your dog finds cat feces buried outdoors, you can rake your cat’s preferred toileting area so that you will know when your cat has visited the site. You can then uncover the feces, put a deterrent on it, and leave it for your dog to find.
Dr. Louise Janes D.V.M. & Dr. Jeff Grognet D.V.M
Mid-Isle Veterinary
Hospital
5-161 Fern Road West
Qualicum Beach, BC
Tel (250) 752-8969
See all articles by Dr. Louise Janes D.V.M. & Dr. Jeff Grognet D.V.M.
Training dogs to avoid eating strange or undesirable things is a great idea. Here are some notes on a “Leave it/Take it” exercise that is part of a dog training course we are putting together. Enjoy, Louise
Imagine walking down the path with your puppy and suddenly his nose goes to something in the grass. It could be a dead bird or hypodermic syringe, but nevertheless, you don’t want him to pick it up.
Wouldn’t it be nice if you could just issue a command, your dog backs away, and he is safe? This is possible with the take it/leave it command. It can also help when you have food on the table and he’s eyeing it up.
This training process begins with two items the puppy wants, one in each hand. They can be identical or different.
Label one, in your mind, as the “take it” hand, and the other, the “leave it” hand. For example, the treat in your left hand is the “take it” one; the right hand holds the “leave it” object. Reverse this order periodically so that the puppy does not get taught that the one on the left is always the one he can eat.
This is the key. The puppy never, EVER gets the object that we call the “leave it”. Don’t say LEAVE IT and then give the puppy that same treat a moment later from the TAKE IT hand. We do this by removing the “leave it” treat from the puppy’s view. Put it in your pocket or a jar. When you pull it out, as far as the puppy knows, it is a brand new treat. He won’t know it was the leave it treat.
Start this exercise by having the puppy in front of you. Keep him in position by standing on the leash, leaving both your hands free. You want to see the puppy asking for instruction on what to do. Be patient.
Have the right hand palm open so he can see or smell the treat. As he goes for it, you close your hand and say LEAVE IT. Don’t be loud and forceful – that will just excite the puppy. The goal of this exercise is to condition him to look at you for what to do next. As soon as your eyes meet, you say TAKE IT and offer the treat from the other hand.
We can elevate the challenge by putting leave it items on the ground and walking by them while on leash. This simulates what happens when you are walking the puppy. You can use the same command when walking by other dogs or if you drop something in the kitchen.
We did this with our dog. If we had food in our hand, it was fun to see what the training did. Courtney would see the food and then immediately look at me, with her pleading eyes. Of course, she got a treat for doing that.
Our younger Golden Retriever is the only dog we have had that was interested in rabbit, deer, and horse feces. When we realized this a simplle commanding NO stopped her in her trackes. Twice more per animal feces and she did it no more. This only works if you can catch them each time they do it because if they manage to feast when you are not looking they know they can get away with it and that feeds into (pun intended lack of attention. Our dogs think we have eyes everywhere because when a problem arises as a pup we watch diligently (in a hiding place) for them to do the wrong thing so that we can magically appear and say NO!!! I also never use treats as rewards just lots of good dog and hugs. But then Golden Retrievers generally prefer snuggles or play tie to food anyway.